Background
Japanese bondage: it
looks difficult when you look at it the first time. "All those complicated knots
and ways to secure someone...that's far too difficult for me", you'll probably
say...well, I assure you that Japanese Bondage is learnable.
This form of bondage goes back to the Oriental middle ages, where it was originally developed as a torture technique. The keys are, just like all other forms of Oriental torture, time and repetition. This way of bondage is more than it seems; it's a combination of the usual bondage-effects like power and helplessness, aesthetics, beauty and a very intense erotic massage (by the pressure of the ropes and the knots) that's very similair to the acupressure techniques and Japanese massage (shiatsu). The key-word for Japanese bondage is, just like many other aspects of BDSM, sublety.
The Rope
It's
best to use soft rope, about 10mm to 12mm (half inch). In the early days, the
Japanese used mostly rough types of rope but remember the goal at that time :-).
Japanese bondage is built up in different layers because than the kind and
strength of the pressure is controllable. Therefore, it's best to use rather
short pieces of rope so you can fine-tune your bondage. When your sub is in
bondage for a few hours, the ropes will probably loosen a bit on certain places
and you don't have to untie the whole thing, just a small
piece.
Some safety tips
Before you
start, there are some things that are important. First of all: Rope costs
little. If you need to get her unwrapped fast, compare the value of the rope
with the value of your sub. I think I know the answer already...so get a pair of
bandage scissors and cut the rope! Also, be careful with winding rope around a
limb; the effect magnifies as you wind. What's firm for a few turns will become
far too tight in a few more.
Now I'll describe a few types of basic bondage.
You can experiment with them and you can even combine them with other kinds of
bondage, like the Western-style...
Now I'll describe a few types of basic bondage. You can experiment with them and you can even combine them with other kinds of bondage, like the Western-style...
Shinju (the
pearls)
Start off with rolling your first piece of
rope around your sub's torso, just under the breasts (the ropes should touch
these and will later support them). Do not do this too tightly but make sure the
tightness of each individual winding is just about the same as the previous and
the next one. Tie the ends together on the back: the knot should be right next
to (not ON) the spine. Next you wind your next rope in exactly the same way
above the breasts.
Take your last end of rope now, double it up and lead it under the lower windings until the rope is halfway under the winding, cross over one or two times and make a nice "V" leading the ends over the shoulders to the back. Pull it, until the lower windings push up the breasts a little, then tie both ends to the lower windings. Again make sure your knot is next to the spine.
Sukaranbo (the
cherry)
For this one you will again need three ends
of rope. Take your first end, double it up, lay it around the waist (again not
too tight), lead the ends carefully through the crotch (in between the labia and
over the clitoris) and tie the whole thing together at the back, next to the
spine. You can add some refinement here by making knots in the ends passing the
crotch that will exactly touch either the clitoris, anus or both.
Wind the next rope around the upper thigh, just under the bottom. Tie the end together at the outside of the thigh, touching the bottom on the outside end. Be sure to leave one end about 30 CM (13 inch) long. This end is to cross the bottom, tilt it a little and is tied to the waist winding, exactly in the middle (next to the spine again). Fix the other rope around the other leg in exactly the same way. (The two ends crossing the bottom, each with a knot on the end form the "cherry.") Apart from the direct stimulation of the clitoris and/or the anus a lot of the excitement comes from the "cherry" and from massaging the inner parts of the thighs and the bottom/leg border (those of you who are into caning know that this is the most sensitive spot on the bottom).
Here you have your Japanese bondage lingerie, made to measure and fully adjustable as well. It is a very good place to start your bondage game (it is non-threatening which may be very appealing to novice subs) and it can stay there for hours. Do not be surprised if your sub is VERY disappointed when these ropes are taken off.
Harnesses
You can have a
leather body harness but you might as well make one out of rope. Like any other
type of Japanese bondage the trick here is the combination of "classic" bondage
features and erotic stimulation. Make sure you know when to use what harness,
some may be fit for suspension, others are NOT. Here is one for
pleasure:
Karada (body)
This is a
non-suspension fit harness, based on the features of Shinju and Sakuranbo, with
a little more. It's meant to tease the body and is a spectaculair sight as well.
If you're an exhibitionist, you might want to surprise some friends on a party
but you can wear this one under normal clothing as well.
You start by taking about 11m (12 yards) of rope, doubling it and laying it around the neck of your sub. Tie the ends in front of the body; the knot must be just above the breasts. Make another knot just below the breasts, one at the belly button and one between the belly button and the vagina. If you want extra stimulation you could add one knot exactly on the clitoris and one on the anus. Lead both ends between the legs and trough the neck loop. Now split the ends and go in front of the body, just above the breasts and loop them under the ropes. Go back and make a knot on the back, next to the spine. Take both ends and move them to the front again, just under the breasts, looping them under the rope again. Continue by making a knot on the back and repeat this until you're out of rope. Take a step back and enjoy your sub and your work :-)
A hint on harnesses: Do not make them too tight, otherwise your sub will have breathing problems and may faint!
After this, you can continue by tying her hands, arms, legs and feet to the harness. This is a nice twist because she will feel every move all over her body :-)
Minimal bondage
One of the Japanese bondage tricks that is very seldom shown,
is minimal bondage. The trick here is to tie a person up with a minimal amount
of rope in the most effective way. Use thinner ropes as well. It can be done
very safely, but the Dom should intensify the controls on the ropes since the
risk of obstructing arteries and veins is slightly higher. The main effect of
minimal bondage is the frustrating effect of it. Although there is hardly any
rope used, the effects are devastating; it is impossible to get out and in most
cases it really hurts if you struggle, so the sub is forced to keep still. Here
are some examples:
If you would normally tie your sub's wrists on her back, try binding only her thumbs. If you bind hands and feet, change it to thumbs and toes. You could also tie all fingers of both hands together or tie the thumbs to the toes if you want to force her to kneel (or spread her legs when lying on her back.
A nice one is to bind the nipples (can stay on for about 15 - 20 minutes). Next tie her thumbs to the bound nipples and another intriguing one is to tie her thumbs to her hair.
Experienced Japanese bondage masters will sometimes even bind the tongue of the sub and then tie her tongue to something else (which is extremely humiliating and very hard to do).
Having to stand with your back against a post or a tree and having only your thumbs bound behind is a lot more difficult, because the sub misses the support of the ropes that would normally be used. Binding her to a tree (belly against the tree) this way is even worse, because - in order to keep her balance - she is now forced to sort of embrace the tree she is tied to, as though it was a love partner.
Binding all toes together forces the sub to spread her legs as widely as she can continuously in every position, thus making her "accessible" at all times. She can no longer walk and even hardly crawl so basically with a few tiny ropes she can't go anywhere.
You could also tie the toes of each individual foot together, have her wear shoes and take her for a walk (binding the toes has a dramatic effect on her sense of balance).
Tying the fingers of the individual hands together makes it a lot more difficult to perform certain household duties and - even more fun - let her try and eat this way.
If you are looking for a "different" nipple clamp, try this one. Lay the nipple between two chop sticks and tie the chop sticks together at both ends (you may want to use elastic bands here, because that is a lot easier).
Asymmetric bondage
Another of the more subtle
techniques in Japanese bondage is to use asymmetric bondage. You will be amazed
what this does to your sub. It increases the effect of the bondage dramatically.
The general idea behind asymmetric bondage is that the mind and the body have a
lot more problems to adjust to anything that is non-symmetric. Since your body
is a symmetric entity, coping with being tied up in a symmetric way is
"natural." Both the mind and the body expect two arms, or two legs to do things
that correspond. In other words, when you walk one foot is in front of your body
and the other foot is in the back. Most of your movements especially to hands
and feet (but the same goes for eyes and ears) are sort of "me and my shadow."
Using asymmetric techniques will break this routine and forces the sub, for
several reasons, to concentrate on the bondage, thus making the impact of being
tied up a lot more intense.
For example: if you tie the right wrist of your sub to her left foot and vice versa her mind will be tricked and she looses the automatic control over left and right coordination. If she wants to move her right leg now, she is forced to concentrate on the question which one is the right one. (You don't even have to blindfold her, it is difficult enough as it is.) Being tied up this way she will only be able to crawl. You will see that crawling is very difficult and she will probably stumble over her own legs.
Another example: tie a rope around her waist and tie the other end to either one of her feet in such a way, that she is still able to stretch that leg, but not completely. Just the feeling of being able to fully stretch one leg, but not the other will frustrate her (especially in the long run). Not to mention what it does to her attempts to try and walk around in a somewhat graceful manner.
Example number three is a variation on the spread-eagle. Simply tie her to a bed spread-eagled like you would normally do. The only difference is that instead of tying both legs to the bed you fold up one leg and tie it folded. She will now be able to move this folded leg - and to a certain extent to move her body - but she is not free and is still unable to close her legs, even though she can "move" one. If you now tie one of her hands on her back and the other over her head (which is a humiliating position as well) she will feel a lot more restrained compared to having both hands on her back.
Forcing her to stand on one leg (lifting one leg up) will not only influence her balance-control, but will also make her very uncertain because she has one leg that does not seem to have any function anymore.
Asymmetric bondage (once you get the hang of it) will probably appeal to your creativity. It opens up a lot of new possibilities and subtle ways to tease and torment her in both a mental and a physical way at the same time.
© by Roper - this page was last updated on 01/05/2005.
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